Finding the Cutting Edge of Chocolate in Brussels

How we followed our sweet tooth to uncover why Belgian chocolate still reigns supreme.

They say you never forget your first real chocolate. Not the supermarket-bought stuff, but the smooth, rich, melt-in-your-mouth magic that you only get from a proper chocolatier. For us, that moment hit somewhere along the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert between a praline from Pierre Marcolini and a ganache from Passion Chocolat, wandering hand in hand. But to understand what makes this small European country punch far above its weight in the world of chocolate, you've got to follow your nose around the chocolate houses of Brussels and dig a little deeper into its history - and maybe try one or two (for research purposes only - I hope you understand).

The History of Belgian Chocolate

Brussels' chocolate story begins in the 17th-centruy when cocoa arrived via Spanish colonists during the time Belgium was a European colony of the Hapsburg Spanish Empire. Chocolate had become known to the Spanish a century earlier during the colonisation of Mexico, but found the bitter liquor of the Aztecs too bitter; only with the introduction of milk and sugar could it suit the European palate. Sugar was easy - that came from Spain's other colonies in the Caribbean - but the best and freshest milk could only be found in Northern Europe, so it was a no-brainer to divert this trade and production away from the Iberian Peninsula to the Spanish Netherlands (aka. Belgium).

It was after years of growing this industry that things really kicked off in the 20th-century when Jean Neuhaus invented the praline in 1912 - a filled chocolate shell that revolutionised the confectionary world and really put Belgian chocolatiers on the map. By the time Swiss and German brands were developing their milkier, mass market varieties, Belgian makers were already refining hand-tempered shells and complex fillings with a level of precision more like jewellers than confectioners.

Even today, Belgium's regulations for chocolate remain stricter than most others with a higher level of pure cocoa and less sugar or dairy than it's European neighbours. While Swiss chocolate might win hearts for its creaminess and Italian treats may indulge with nutty blends, Belgian chocolate is prized globally for its craftsmanship and quality - giving Belgium the edge when it comes to the world's best chocolate.

So of course, on a quick trip to Brussels - the de facto chocolate capital of Belgium - we couldn't resist building an entire day around it. This is a story of pralines and what it means to indulge, explore, and support small artisans doing things properly.

From Grand Place to Gourmand

We started where all the best Brussels tales begin: The Grand Place. It's only fair to admit we were side-tracked immediately by the small of hot chocolate drifting across the warm breeze from the open doors of Maison Dandoy. The sun was peeking through the ornate gothic facades of the square as we sipped on an espresso and shared a buttery, gluten-free waffle from the nearby Sister Brussels Café - delightful!

From here, its a short walk to the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, a dazzling arcade filled with some of the cities finest chocolate shops. We popped into Pierre Marcolini - a name to conjour with amongst chocoholics-in-the-know. Their Grand Cru range is a masterclass in how to highlight cocoa origins without making them too sweet, with every chocolate runway-ready and crafted to perfection. We let a single-origin chocolate melt on our tongues; I had a floral Madagascan while Ash had an early Venezuelan - a real moment.

We popped from here past the window of Neuhaus, where the praline was born. Looking in through the windows, locals and tourists alike were delicately sampling chocolates like people sipping flutes of Champagne in Epernay, full of ceremony and tasting notes. Next up: Mary, another Royal Warrant holder (like Pierre Marcolini), whose delicate, pastel coloured boxes were almost too pretty to open, and filled with amazing ganache and tablets which looked utterly delicious.

Then came Leonidas, the high-street hero of Belgian chocolates (you may even have one in your city as they've made the jump across Europe), but not one to overlook. They are affordable, delicious, and perfect for gifts for back home and definitely better in Belgium than anywhere else. By now, we were practically delirious on the sugar high, and walked arm-in-arm beneath the Galeries' sparkling ceiling, plotting our next stop.

A Sweet Treat at the Sablon

We sped (now totally wired for sugary treats) towards the Sablon neighbourhood, which is to chocolate what Soho, London is to nightlife - classic, stylish, and just on the right side of indulgent. A short stroll led us to Wittamer, another chocolatier with royal approval. The traditional pralines here are worth the stop alone, as well as their perfectly crafted truffles and gift boxes, but for a true boujie Bruxellois experience grab a seat on the terrace and pair your chocolates with a coffee - tres chic!

From there we dipped into Passion Chocolat, a small artisan shop with a super friendly vibe. We chatted with the owner there about chocolate tempering and Brussels' evolving queer scene. He told us about how the chocolate world (much like Brussels) is becoming more inclusive, with women, LGBTQ+ people, and younger makers taking the reins and keeping Brussels on the cutting edge of the Chocolate world. It was a reminder that chocolate, like identity, is complex, layered, and meant to be shared.

Full of cocoa and conversation, we took a break at Mont des Arts. It's one of the best city views in Brussels, especially as the sun hung high in the sky. We sat there for a while, letting the buzz of the day (and our sugar levels) settle, watching skateboarders, couples, and tourists alike swirl around together like a delicious chocolate fondue with the picture perfect spires of the old city and huge murals rising in the background - beautiful!

Brussels Through a Chocolate Lens

This trip wasn't just about chocolate. It was about discovering Brussels' deep history and industry through one of its greatest exports, in a personal, playful and queer way. In every truffle and tablet, we found a story of craft, heritage, passion, and national pride. And even in the headrush we had in the Galeries, and the inevitable sugar-crash at Mont des Arts, we found a deeper connection to each other and this layered, luscious city.

So if you're planning your own trip, skip the diet, pack your most stretchy pair of trousers, and follow your sweet tooth. Brussels isn't just about looking back at history - it's about tasting it, and finding out what's next!

LGBTQ+ Travel Note:

Brussels is one of Europe's most progressive capital cities, with a vibrant queer community and events like Belgian Pride. All of the chocolate shops we visited were welcoming and inclusive, and you'll find a growing scene of LGBTQ+ creators in the food world too. Just bring a large appetite and an open heart.

Craving a sweet escape? Save this post, plan your own chocolate trail, and tag @biggayworldtravel when you find your favourite praline. Want more guides and travel stories? Subscribe to the blog and follow along for more fabulously flavourful adventures.