Ghent, gorgeous Ghent: medieval marvels, sunset strolls, and a warm welcome for gay travellers
- Jon Holden-Makings
- Jul 10
- 6 min read
Updated: Jul 30
Come with us as we spend a couple of days wandering Ghent’s fairytale streets, finding it’s best golden-hour angles, and finding out exactly what this overlooked Belgian city has to offer LGBTQ+ travellers.
Index
Recently, I've found myself becoming a bit sick of airports. Yes, there’s a certain glamour to air travel, but one more minute in a security queue at Heathrow and I could hang up my frequent flyer badge for good. That’s why this summer we’ve been all about flight-free travel.
It just made sense: we could explore a couple of countries we’d barely scratched the surface of, make more conscious decisions about our carbon footprint, and save time by avoiding airport chaos. My main goal? Not losing my mind in another airport Pret. After a little research and some amazing personal recommendations, we settled on Ghent. You might not hear it mentioned alongside Brussels, Bruges, or Antwerp, but don’t underestimate this small city - it’s an underrated gem bursting with beauty, charm, and history.
Getting to Ghent
We arrived in Brussels-Midi after two very quick hours on the Eurostar from London, watching the French countryside and Flemish villages blur past (already a win over air travel, if you ask me).
Brussels-Midi doesn’t quite roll out the red carpet like St Pancras. In fact, stepping off the train felt like being herded through a 1960s hospital corridor. But once we reached the main concourse, it was easy enough to navigate, and we were on a connecting Intercity train to Ghent within minutes. Trains to Ghent-Sint-Pieters take around 25 minutes and run regularly throughout the day.
Where We Stayed: The Hide
A short taxi ride from the station took us to The Hide - a self-check-in hotel tucked down a narrow alley off a buzzy street near the student district. The location was perfect: a short walk to the city centre and surrounded by lively bars, indie cafés, and more thrift shops than you could shake a sustainable tote at.
The Hide spreads across three floors, with each room individually designed. Ours was enormous, with sky-high ceilings, blissful air-conditioning (essential during a raging heatwave), a fully equipped kitchen, and an avant-garde bed situation that’ll raise eyebrows but delight your back. Honestly? It might have been the most comfortable hotel bed I’ve ever had the pleasure of collapsing into.
Decorated with high-camp flair and artistic flair, the hotel has a communal courtyard with a mirrored wall that begs for an outfit-of-the-day selfie, and a canal-side garden with loungers and benches - a dream for golden hour wine o’clock. The whole place felt incredibly private and LGBTQ+ friendly, with subtle design choices and a calm, inclusive vibe that instantly made us feel welcome.
Exploring Ghent’s Old Town
To say Ghent is beautiful is like saying Eurovision is mildly entertaining - a massive understatement. Think the storybook charm of Bruges without the tourist mobs, Antwerp’s cool without the pickpockets, and Brussels’ glitz without the politics. The whole city is a glowing maze of canals, cobblestones, and grand gabled townhouses, with tree-lined squares that seem to pop out of nowhere around every corner.
We spent hours just walking without a plan, dipping into quiet alleyways and watching life unfold in hidden squares. One morning, we stumbled on a tiny coffee shop that had the best oat milk flat white I’ve ever had. That sort of thing happens a lot in Ghent - the city rewards curiosity.
Ghent was once one of the most powerful cities in Northern Europe - richer than London or Paris, and bigger than Cologne or Moscow - thanks to the medieval wool trade. And you can feel that legacy in its towering guild halls, elaborate façades, and imposing churches. The best way to soak it all in? By water.
We booked a 50-minute canal tour with Boat in Gent, leaving from Vleeshuisbrug. It was brilliant. The guide was hilarious, skipping effortlessly between Dutch, French, and English, and the tour gave us a great overview of Ghent’s layout. Highlights included the fairytale turrets of Gravensteen Castle, the postcard-perfect Graslei and Korenlei, and the leafy, romantic Lievekaai.
Pro tip: book a tour for early in your visit to get your bearings, and don’t forget your camera - every bend in the canal is begging for its Instagram moment.
St Bavo’s Cathedral & the Ghent Altarpiece
If you’re a sucker for a skyline, head to Sint-Michielsbrug for sunset. The view eastward along the axis of Ghent’s three towers - St Nicholas’ Church, the Belfry, and St Bavo’s Cathedral – is truly one of Europe’s best. They glow in the evening light like three golden candles marking the city’s medieval heart.
Inside St Bavo’s, you’ll find the legendary Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by Hubert and Jan van Eyck - the most stolen artwork in history. The cathedral offers an immersive AR tour (yes, including a random-but-persistent floating teapot guide) that dives into the wild history of this masterpiece. Even if you’re not an art history buff, it’s compelling, bizarre, and well worth the entry fee. Ash was skeptical at first, but even he was captivated.
Where to Eat (and What to Order)
Did you know Ghent is the vegetarian capital of Europe? It’s true - and it makes eating out a dream for travellers with dietary needs.
Patershol is your go-to neighbourhood for traditional Belgian fare. De Stokerij is a standout, serving rich classics like moules frites and waterzooi - Ghent’s signature creamy chicken stew. It books up fast, so reserve ahead.
For something more plant-based, Lippensplein is full of vegan-friendly cafés and brunch spots. Our favourite was Madame Bakster - think crispy potato rostis, vibrant salsa verde, and almond milk cappuccinos so good I nearly proposed to the owner.
And yes, we found gluten-free Belgian waffles! Go Fre in the shopping district offers GF options with no cross-contamination fear and enough toppings to induce a sugar coma. Absolutely unmissable.
Nightlife & LGBTQ+ Vibes
Ghent might not have a huge queer scene, but it makes up for it with inclusivity, charm, and a sense of laid-back pride. Rainbow flags fluttered from public buildings, and we saw couples of all kinds strolling hand-in-hand along the canals. We felt completely safe and very welcome.
While most dedicated LGBTQ+ venues are a little outside the centre, bars like Missy Sippy Blues and Roots Club have a great vibe, live music, and a friendly mixed crowd. Barazza and Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant were our go-to spots for a chilled beer by the water, often surrounded by other queer couples enjoying the sunset.
For those looking for more of a party, weekends bring pop-up drag nights and queer events advertised on local Instagram pages and posters - keep your eyes peeled and ask friendly locals where to go. It’s worth chatting to your bartender; we got the best recommendation for an underground queer party that ended up being a trip highlight.
Photography Tips for Ghent
Golden hour is magic in Ghent. Head to Graslei around sunset for dreamlike reflections in the water.
For a less crowded view of the city’s skyline, cross the bridge at Reep near the back of St Bavo’s.
Don’t miss the graffiti alley (Werregarenstraat) for a burst of colour and edgy contrast to all the medieval charm.
Bring a wide-angle lens if you want to capture the grand interiors of the cathedral and castle.
For Instagrammers: soft pastels and muted tones match Ghent’s vibe beautifully. Shoot early for empty streets.
Quick Tips for Travelling Ghent
When to go: Late spring and early autumn are ideal - fewer crowds, mild weather, and gorgeous light.
Getting around: Ghent is best explored on foot or by bike. Public transport is easy and affordable, but the city centre is pedestrian-friendly.
Language: Dutch is the main language, but most locals speak excellent English.
Stay connected: Local SIMs or EU roaming make it easy, but most places have free Wi-Fi.
Packing tip: Bring layers. Belgium weather can turn on a dime.
Money tip: Most places take cards, but some smaller cafés are cash only - keep a little on you.
LGBTQ+ Travel Tip
While Ghent isn’t a queer party capital, it’s one of the most relaxed and quietly inclusive places we’ve visited. Couples won’t get a second glance, and there’s a growing alternative scene if you look beneath the surface. Safe, welcoming, and utterly charming.
Serving Ghent, Realness
We were blown away by Ghent. Its beauty, walkability, friendliness, and rich history make it a top-tier city break destination. Forget the tourist throngs in Bruges - Ghent has the same magic, with a fresher, more down-to-earth vibe.
So, if you’re planning a Eurotrip, do yourself a favour and put Ghent high on your list.
Save this post for your next city break, and follow us on Instagram @biggayworldtravel for more honest LGBTQ+ travel tips, gorgeous photography, and fun travel guides!
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