48 Hours in Bath: Georgian Glamour, Steamy Soaks & Queer History Beneath the Surface

Jon Holden-Makings
Jul 30
10 min read

A weekend guide to Bath, where history comes with honey-coloured facades, thermal springs bubble beneath centuries of stories, and travellers can soak up culture, comfort, and just a touch of Jane Austen-style drama in one of England's most beautiful small cities.

Bath, But Make it Queer

Bath is like walking into a perfectly composed period drama - except this one has less Mr Darcy-style, wet-shirt contests, and far more flat whites and GF burgers. For years, I'd popped to Bath on day trips, admiring the Georgian streets and Roman ruins, or on friends birthdays to hop between its brunch spots and bars, but this time we booked in for a full weekend - and let me tell you, Bath rewards a longer stay.

It's compact, elegant, walkable, and has layers that unfold the more time you give to it. From rooftop spa sessions to riverside rambles and a quietly welcoming queer scene, Bath is the kind of place that lets you live your best Jane-Austen-meets-Instagram-Reels reality.

Here's how we spent 48 glorious hours soaking up the best of Bath (with a few detours into history, hot springs, and heavenly cakes).

City street scene with historic architecture and church spire. Cars and pedestrians under a bright blue sky. Hills in the background.

Day One: Roman Roots & Rooftop Soaks

Start at the Roman Baths & Bath Abbey

We began at the very heart of Bath's namesake - the Roman Baths - the brilliantly preserved and atmospheric bath complex that still has thermal waters rising from the pools where Romans once gossiped, schemed, and bathed. It's part history lesson, part cultural immersion, and part sensory experience, as the faint metallic smell of Bath's mineral waters waft through the steam that you'll get from here on a cool morning. There's even a fountain where you can taste the mineral-rich waters which attracted people long after the Romans had left, and heralded the Georgian tourist boom bringing the likes of Jane Austen and Charles Darwin here (spoiler alert: tastes like warm pennies). Make sure you book your tickets ahead and get their early if you want to beat the crowds and have a serene experience here.

Right next door is the soaring Bath Abbey, with its fan-vaulted ceilings and heavenly acoustics. We caught a short organ recital and stood in the nave watching sunlight pour through the stained glass above us. Whether you're religious or not, it's worth checking out this ancient abbey for a moment of stillness and wonder at the incredible Medieval architecture. It's well worth joining a tour here, as the guides are funny and very informative about the different layers of history on display in the church, and point out things that would go unnoticed to many passers-by.

Street scene with people walking, surrounded by historic buildings featuring columns and sculptures. Cloudy sky sets a timeless mood.

Coffee, Lunch & People-Watching

We wandered up the tight Bath alleys, like Union Passage, to Northumberland Place for a quick coffee break at Coffever Coffee Roastery - bright interiors, top-tier cappuccinos, and lots of friendly dogs. All of the streets around here are narrow and atmospheric, with independent shops and galleries, and cafes pouring out into the streets. It's a perfect place for people watching as pedestrians slow down to window shop, or weigh up cafe and restaurant menus as they pass by. There's a very specific look here: slow-moving, scarf-wearing, and often sporting a tote bag from the Jane Austen Centre.

Continuing to dive down the narrow alleyways, we found cool clothing shops like Route One on The Corridor, The Silver Shop of Bath selling delicate hand crafted jewellery on Union Passage, and were nearly tempted by a bottle in Amathus Wine Merchants on Green Street. Each shop front more tempting than the last and joining in the precession of the scarf-wearing pedestrians as we went.

We wandered further up the hill, now on the grand shopping street of Milsom Street, lined on both sides with designer brands, perfumers, and expensive looking restaurants, like The Botanist, for example, that has become recognisable on Channel 4's First Dates, and so very popular with couples and parties alike. Continuing uphill we reach the Beckford Canteen; stylish, seasonal, and just a touch decadent. Think local produce, crisp white wine, and dishes that feel comforting and cleaver. I had a roasted squash salad that felt like a hug in food form, but there were loads of coeliac options to chose from so we had plenty of options.

Narrow street with shops, people walking and browsing, colorful bunting overhead, evening setting, signs for Neal's Yard and Sobeys visible.

Stroll through the Crescents and Circuses

We needed to walk off lunch, but being the early afternoon we knew that The Royal Crescent was a no-go. The day trippers to Bath who flock there can be a little overwhelming, especially after splitting a bottle of wine in a romantic setting, and so we decided instead to spend an hour or two checking out some of Bath's no less beautiful, but quieter Georgian architecture.

We picked up rental scooters outside of The Assembly Rooms - Bath's former society hub which hosted more balls than a season of Bridgerton - which is all grand columns and pediments from the outside and climbed up the hill towards Lansdown Crescent and Somerset Place. Both of these grand crescents feature all of the same golden architecture as The Royal Crescent, with columns and pediments and huge windows, but you'll virtually be the only ones here. Both open out onto green space, with Somerset Place overlooking a well-manicured park, and Lansdown Crescent looking out over a meadow grazed by sheep. It's a perfect blend of the grandest of architecture and the most pastoral of scenes that make Bath such a beautiful and relaxing place - you'll feel like you've stepped out of a city entirely and emerged at a countryside escape for Queen Charlotte.

Moments back down the hill from here is also Camden Crescent, which overlooks a park so steep that it feels like the Georgian buildings form the edge of a cliff, but the views from up here are perfect for a quiet moment hand-in-hand overlooking this lovely slice of England. We walked back down through the park below, Hedgemead Park, for a bit of added tranquillity, and emerged roughly back where we were near the Beckford Canteen feeling recharged and wondering how much memory we still had left in our cameras.

Historic beige stone building with columns and multiple windows, set against a blue sky. Wrought iron fences line the sidewalk below.

Early Evening Soak at Thermae Bath Spa

No Bath trip is complete without taking to the waters. We booked the Thermae Bath Spa Twilight Package, giving us two hours of access to the iconic rooftop pool as well as the Minerva Pool inside with its whirlpool and steam rooms. Floating in warm mineral waters while gazing out over the Bath skyline as the sun sets? Genuinely magical. The spa blend modern design with ancient wellness in a way that's uniquely Bath, using naturally warm, mineral-rich waters drawn from the space springs that feed the Roman Baths next door. Don't skip the wellness suite either, which has herbal steam rooms, an infrared sauna, and a celestial-themed relaxation room that made me feel like a very pampered astronaut. We emerged from the spa soft-skinned and relaxed - but a pro tip: bring your own flip-flops unless you fancy renting a pair!

Historic street with Georgian buildings and a central fountain. Cars line the road at dusk, beneath a moody, cloudy sky.

Evening Stroll to Pulteney Bridge & Dinner at The Circus

Wrapped up in our scarfs, we wandered down Instagram-ready Great Pulteney Street which was glowing in the dusky light, and watched twilight descend over Pulteney Bridge, which is lines with shops (closed at this time in the evening) and looks straight out of a painting. We dipped into Opium Bar, a quirky speakeasy style bar tucked just under the bridge, for an aperitif before walking up to The Circus Restaurant, nestled between the two great Georgian landmarks of The Royal Crescent and The Circus. The food? Impeccable. Think beautifully cooked Cotswold lamb, elegant puddings, and a wine list that puts many London restaurants to shame. Service was thoughtful and unrushed, giving us time to relive the day and pick our favourite moment (the rooftop spa won out, narrowly beating the face Ash pulled tasting the mineral waters of the Roman Baths).

Looking for a Nightcap? Tucked away near the Abbey, The Hideout is a small whisky bar with moody lighting and serious charm. Ash went for a peaty single malt, while I went for a unique Waterford whisky with salty top notes. It's cosy, welcoming, and distinctly un-touristy - a perfect end to day one. Looking for something a little livelier? George Street is the hub of the action, with bars like Sub 13 and Se7en popular with groups and couples alike. It can get a bit hen-do-heavy here, but wait till the last trains roll out and the bars feel a little less frenetic and more welcoming.

Historic stone bridge over calm river with a weir, framed by old buildings. Soft lighting creates a serene, picturesque scene.

Day Two: Crescents, Canals & Cake

Morning Walk: Royal Crescent to Victoria Park

We started the morning with a walk from The Circus to The Royal Crescent - arguably one of the most famous addresses in the UK, and peaceful at this time of the day. The sweep of Georgian architecture is breath-taking, with honey-coloured limestone glowing gold in the morning light. We sat on the green out front, sipping on our takeaway coffees from The Green Bird Café nearby, and admired the Hollywood glamour of the space - it's no wonder they've used this city to film everything from Bridgerton to Wonka and every period drama in between. From there, we wandered through Royal Victoria Park, a leafy expanse that offers views back across the city and a real sense of green escape. It's the kind of park where locals do tai-chi, dogs frolic freely, and time slows down just enough to make you appreciate being able to travel and walk arm-in-arm with your favourite person.

Royal Victoria Park is by no means the only place to get your green fix in Bath, and if you're looking to combine your walk with showstopping views then Prior Park is an immaculate landscaped garden nestled in a hidden valley just south of the city centre, and is worth the steep hike to get to it. Alexandra Park is also in this direction, though closer, and anyone willing to brave the steep stairs up here is rewarded with arguably the best view of Bath unfurling like a Regency miniature village beneath them.

Historic curved building with rows of windows and chimneys against a blue sky. Cars parked along the street; green lawn in the foreground.

Brunch at Wild Café and Exploring the Artisan Quarter

Back in town, we ducked into Wild Café for a relaxed brunch. Their scrambled eggs are top-tier, and they do a great gluten-free toast option. Cosy vibes, friendly staff, and no rush - just the way a weekend brunch should be. We chatted with a couple visiting from Brighton who were also soaking up the slow pace. It's that kind of spot. We wandered back across town (nowhere is that far in this diminutive city centre) and checked out Walcot Street, Bath's slightly boho independent stretch of shops, galleries, and vintage boutiques. We browsed some handmade ceramics that would have made a perfect gift, tried on some funky sunglasses, and chatted to a lovely woman selling art prints. There's a real community spirit here that you don't always expect to find in a city so revered by tourists and day trippers, and it's refreshing.

People walk towards a large, ornate building under a clear blue sky. Vibrant art decorates the facade, and manicured gardens line the path.

Afternoon Canal Walk & Sydney Gardens

One of our favourite parts of Bath? The canal walk. Starting near Pulteney Bridge, the Kennet and Avon Canal trail takes you from the very leafy and well-to-do suburb of Bathampton to the quiet stretch near Bath Locks with it's toyboy small lock-keepers cottages and canalside gardens. Here you get to see a totally different side to Bath; pastel-painted canal boats, overgrown rosebushes, and resident ducks all enjoying the peace and quiet along this stretch of canal. The walk winds towards Sydney Gardens - an 18th-century pleasure gardens that was a favourite of Jane Austen herself and one of the oldest public gardens in the UK. It's now a serene haven of winding paths, tall trees, and hidden alcoves between quiet lawns and perfect flowerbeds. If you're lucky you'll even spot one of the vintage trains passing by on the edge of the gardens. We stopped for a break at the The Holburne Museum in the middle of the park, a neoclassical gem hosing fine and decorative arts and hosting many modern exhibitions. Even if museums aren't your thing, the building is gorgeous, and the rear extension blends old and new with striking elegance. The museum café is also a real highlight - light and airy with great cakes and lovely views into the well-manicured park, and a sculpture garden that is also worth poking around. The museum itself will feel awfully familiar if you're a fan of period dramas as it doubled as Lady Danbury's house in Bridgerton, so this is a prime opportunity to live your best Jane Austen life over a pot of tea and a gossip.

From here we headed back along Great Pulteney Street, this time bathed in sunlight, to enjoy the amazing symmetry of the architecture and argue about which of these houses we would live in if we won the lottery.

Orange star lanterns hang in a cathedral with tall arches and stained glass windows, creating a warm, festive atmosphere.

Dinner at Beefy Boys

For a final night's feast, we went to one of our favourite spots, Beefy Boys Bath, a classic burger joint specialising in flame grilled smash burgers made from locally reared West Country Beef, and giving a huge variety of choices and toppings including PBJ, with chili jam and peanuts - my favourite - and The Blue Boy, with oodles of melted blue cheese pairing perfectly with the Oklahoma-style smashed burgers - Ash's pick. Almost every burger here can be made gluten-free as well, so a great option for people with dietary requirements (unless you're vegan). There are so many options in Bath that can suit any flavour, and another favourite of ours is Pintxo de Bath which serves up some of the South West's best tapas and pintxos alongside an extensive wine list (and authentic sherries). The ever-changing menu includes seasonal highlights and inventive tapas specialities and it never disappoints. Oak is also a picture-perfect, fine-dining vegetarian spot that we've been delighted by previously. Seasonal ingredients, gorgeous plating, and a wine list specialising in natural wines. It feels fresh, fun, and very modern in a city where heritage is often the highlight.

Two men with sunglasses smile for a selfie in front of a historic yellow building under a blue sky. One wears a cap and the other a cross necklace.

LGBTQ+ Travel Tip Bath's queer scene is low-key but lovely. The annual Bath Pride (held in the summer) is family-friendly and fab, while bars like Mandalyns offer a warm welcome year-round. We felt totally comfortable everywhere we went, from spas to cocktail bars, and the city's charm lies in its quiet confidence and open arms.

Bath, Beautiful in Every Way

Bath is more than just pretty streets. It's the way the light hits the stone. It's how the city invites you to slow down, soak it in, and appreciate beauty - be it architectural, culinary, or human. In 48 hours, we stepped through history, floated above rooftops, and felt entirely welcome in a city that balances heritage with heart. If you're looking for a city break that's elegant without being exclusive, rich in experience but refreshingly relaxed, Bath is ready with open arms and steamy pools.