48 Hours in Oxford: Dreaming Spires, Bookish Strolls, & Queer Whimsy
- Jon Holden-Makings
- Aug 15
- 7 min read
Two days in the city of gowns, gargoyles, and golden-hour punting - where centuries-old colleges meet cosy pubs, rainbow flags fly beside cobblestones, and a weekend away feels like stepping into a very gay episode of Brideshead Revisited.
Index
Oxford might be best known for its university - the kind of place where students wear gowns to exams and the library looks like it's been plucked straight out of a film set. But beyond the bookshelves and history lectures, Oxford is a living, breathing, modern British city. Think cobbled lanes, honey-coloured stone, boathouses on the Thames (or the Isis if you're feeling local), cosy pubs, and a food scene that's more than just posh nosh and afternoon teas.
For a queer traveller, Oxford is a curious mix - steeped in rich tradition, but dotted with pockets of progressive, creative energy. It's a city where you can spend the morning following in the footsteps of literary greater, the afternoon punting on the River Cherwell, and the evening sipping cocktails under twinkling fairy lights.
Here's how to make the most of 48 glorious hours in Oxford, with all of the history, indulgence, and subtle rebellious streak you'd expect from us in one of our favourite UK cities.
Day One - Spires, Stories & Strolls
A Walking Tour & Coffee Fix
Where better to start in this city of dreaming spires than the historic centre? Oxford is very much a walking city, and the best way to get your bearings is on foot. I recommend joining a guided walking tour that navigates through hidden courtyards, twisting alleyways, and famous colleges like Christ Church, Magdalen, and All Souls. Your guide will no doubt sprinkle a few juicy anecdotes: secret societies, academic rivalries, and the occasional scandal (Oxford's history isn't all dusty lecture halls and manuscripts).
If you'd rather wander solo, pick up a map and set off from Radcliffe Square. The Radcliffe Camera (not a camera but an iconic domed building in the middle of the square), the Bodleian Library, and the University Church of St Mary the Virgin are all within steps of each other, each more photogenic than the last.
Once you've soaked up the grand architecture, head to Missing Bean or Newground Coffee for your caffeine hit - both favourites among locals and students alike. Order a flat white and settle in by the window for some top-tier people watching.
Christ Church & Alice in Wonderland
Christ Church College is an Oxford superstar - it's both one of the largest colleges in the city and a filming location for the Harry Potter films (along with other classic films). Even if you're not a Potterhead (and there's lots of reasons why you shouldn't be), the Great Hall is jaw-dropping, and the quadrangle is peak English grandeur and set the blueprint for every University Quad that followed.
Lewis Carroll (real name Charles Dodgson) taught here, and his tales of Alice in Wonderland were inspired by the Dean's daughter. Keep an eye out for the subtle nods to the story throughout both the grounds, and also the rest of the city too. Safe to say Oxford is very proud of it's literary heritage and Carroll's Wonderland is no exception.
Lunch at the Covered Market
This 18th-century indoor market is a foodie's playground. Stalls brim with fresh bread, handmade chocolates, and enough cheese to fuel you for a week, let alone 48 hours. I'm a sucker for a couple of the stores in here: Sasi's Thai is a favourite for a quick and delicious lunch, Colombia Coffee Roasters's long menu of caffeinated pick me ups always delight, The Teardrop Bar serves local brews from Oxford and the Cotswolds, and Gulp Fiction blends bookshop with bar with coffee shop to amazing effect. No matter what you're looking for foodwise - you're bound to find something that peaks your interest.
Museums & Meadows
If you're in a cultural mood, the Ashmolean Museum is a must. It's the world's oldest public museum and houses everything from Egyptian mummies to Pre-Raphaelite paintings. Definitely check out the Saxon galleries for some of the finest jewels and artifacts from early-medieval Europe found just outside of Oxford and explained in amazing detail. Also don't miss the rooftop bar and café, which serves more than just your standard sandwiches, and rewards any museum-goers with incredible views out over the city skyline.
If you'd prefer to keep the sunshine on your face, take a stroll through Christ Church Meadow. The path winds along the river, past punters (in the most literal sense) gliding along the river, and rowers powering through training sessions too. In summer, the wildflowers here are gorgeous - you really wouldn't think you were in the middle of a city; in winter, it's atmospheric in a moody, misty kind of way.
Dinner and Drinks in the historic centre.
Start with dinner at The Handle Bar Café & Kitchen - an upstairs, cycle-themed restaurant that's all about seasonal, local produce and a relaxed and friendly vibe. Think perfectly cooked fish, hearty veggie dishes, and a wine list that's perfectly navigable even to a relative wine novice like me. For afters, you've got two main moods: Cocktail Chic at The Varsity Club, with rooftop views for that golden hour Aperol-spritz selfie that you've been craving; or Pub Cosy at The Turf Tavern, hidden down a harrow alleyway and steeped in history as well as some celebrity claims to fame.
Day Two - Gardens, Bookshops & Boating
Botanical Garden morning
Start the day with fresh air and greenery at the University of Oxford Botanic Gardens, the oldest in Britain. It's a blissful mix of formal planting, wild areas, and a peaceful riverside setting. This is where you can slow the pace right down and enjoy some Oxford air. If you're a nostalgic Millennial like me then you'll also want to find Will and Lyra's bench from the His Dark Materials series and maybe have a little heartfelt moment! If you're not feeling so interested in the history of botany, but still want a good garden to explore then Magdalen College across the street pairs ancient college architecture - all cloisters, chapels, and flying buttresses - with enormous parklands straddling both sides of the river. It even comes with it's own deer park too. If you're touring Magdalen then ask your guide about Oscar Wilde's years here, and see if you can squeeze out how much he both loved and loathed his time here, as well as some salacious stories too.
Blackwells' Bookshop - Oxford's Hidden Gem
Oxford is a city of books, and while you might think the gothic architecture of the Bodleian - with it's chained library and vaulted stone - is it's temple to literature, you might be surprised that really Blackwell's gives it a run for it's money. The unassuming bookshop next to the Bodleian's new wing might look like any other bookshop but look in further and you'll discover the underground, cavernous Norrington Room, which is a Guinness World Record holder for the largest single room selling books - the sleeves stretching that long you'll think you've entered some sort of parallel universe. It's the perfect place for picking up almost anything to read, a local travel guide, or something queer and thought-provoking for your travel home.
Lunch in Jericho
A short walk from the centre, Jericho has a bohemian vibe, with indie shops and cafes galore. Grab lunch at Branca - Mediterranean-inspired dishes, generous portions, and a sunny terrace if the weather is on your side. Jericho is also home to The Old Bookbinders, a French bistro-cum-pub hybrid that somehow manages to pull off this seemingly impossible combination. Definitely worth checking out.
If you're looking to work off your lunch, then take in the quaint suburban vibes of this part of the city. It's sandwiched between the huge green swathes of The University Parks to the east and the vast winter flood meadows of Port Meadow to the west so you have plenty of options to stretch your legs and take in some more amazing greenery in this diminutive city where you never feel too far from the edge of the countryside.
Punting on the River Cherwell
You can't come to Oxford and not try punting on the river. Hire one from Magdalen Bridge Boathouse and either DIY (prepare for some zig-zagging, some unbalanced moments, and lots of laughter) or pay for a chauffeured ride so you can sit back and enjoy some afternoon Pimms or Prosecco. You'll drift past weeping willows, swans, cricket pitches and college gardens - it's pure postcard perfection.
A Final Oxford Feast
End your Oxford adventure with dinner at Gee's. The glasshouse setting is romantic without feeling stuffy and the Mediterranean-inspired menu is perfect for celebrating a weekend well spent. For something a little less formal, but just as delicious, strike out along Cowley Road and take your pick from one of the fabulous restaurants here; from Tapas at Arbequina, to award winning Caribbean delights in Spiced Roots.
If you're still up for some nightlife, check out The Jolly Farmers - Oxford's oldest gay pub, friendly and full of character and characters alike. It's a great spot to meet locals and swap travel stories before heading home.
LGBTQ+ Travel Tip
Oxford doesn't have a huge queer scene, but what it does have is welcoming and rooted in community. The Jolly Farmers is your go-to for a relaxed pint, and PLUSH Oxford runs bigger club nights if you're in the mood for a dance. The city's academic and international mix means most spaces are inclusive, so you can comfortably explore without ever feeling out of place. Summer events like Oxford Pride bring the community together - time your trip right and you'll see the city at it's most colourful.
Where to Stay
The Randolph Hotel - Grand, centrally located, and steeped in Oxford tradition.
Malmaisson Oxford - A converted prison with seriously cool rooms (yes, sleeping in a former prison cell can be exciting).
The Old Bank Hotel - Modern, stylish and right in the heart of the action.
Oxford: Dreaming Spires and Dreamy Weekends
Oxford might have the brains, but it's also got plenty of heart - from punting down the Cherwell with a picnic, to sipping cocktails in secret speakeasies, to wandering past honey-coloured colleges that look like they've leapt from the pages of a fantasy novel. In just 48 hours, you can cram in history, architecture, food, and a healthy dose of people-watching (trust me, Broad Street is a runway and you can't convince me otherwise). Whether you're here for the books, the buildings or the beer gardens, Oxford will leave you wanting more.
If you enjoyed this guide and want more BGWT travel stores, LGBTQ+ travel tops, and destination inspo, follow us on social media @BigGayWorldTravel - and don't forget to save this post for your next Oxford getaway. Because trust me, the city of dreaming spires will be calling you back before you know it.