A Queer Cotswolds Road Trip: From Oxford to Bath via Honey-Stone Dreams & Countryside Cream Teas
- Jon Holden-Makings
- Aug 1
- 13 min read
Take the scenic route through England’s storybook heartland - wandering from Oxford’s dreaming spires to Bath’s Georgian splendour via Burford, Bourton, and more. Expect charming villages, rolling hills, antique shops, tearooms, and plenty of LGBTQ+-friendly countryside moments.
Index
Slow roads and Queer country escapes
When you think of 'queer travel', your mind might not immediately jump straight to stone cottages and dry stone walls - but hear us out. The Cotswolds has a quiet kind of magic, and as my husband and I know from setting down roots here, a three-day drive from Oxford to Bath is a deeply romantic way to experience this charming corner of England, that welcomes LGBTQ+ travellers with open arms and excellent cream teas and pub lunches.
The route winds through grand estates, quaint market towns, riverside walks, and places where queer lives have been lived quietly but powerfully. This is the kind of trip best done slowly, with playlists full of folk-pop, a car boot full of local cheese, and a willingness to stop for every good view (which will be regularly).
Day One: Oxford to Burford and the Windrush Valley
Stop 1: Oxford
Where is it?
Oxford straddles the Thames just at the point the river breaks free from the east of the Cotswolds Hills, and at the point the bucolic River Cherwell joins with the broad slow moving river. It's only an hour from London by car or train making it the perfect starting point for a Cotswolds Escape.
Why is it worth visiting?
This city of dreaming spires blends ancient academia, history, vast parks, and queer stories going back centuries. It's intellectual, picturesque, and quietly but proudly progressive.
Things to see
Christ Church College - Oxford's largest single college gives you everything you've dreamed of from an ancient college experience; a giant quad, gothic architecture, meadow-side views, and ties to Alice in Wonderland, Harry Potter, and His Dark Materials.
University Church of St Mary the Virgin's Tower - Sweeping views from the city centre tower, giving you uninterrupted views of the Radcliffe Camera, All Souls College, and the city beyond.
LGBTQ+ History tours are available through the university or self-guided apps and will tell you about all of the queer pioneers who lived, studied, and trailblazed gay rights from this very city.
Where to eat and drink
Vaults & Garden Cafe - Ethical eats in the church crypt and courtyard, amazing spot for peoplewatching.
Cowley Road - Studenty and progressive district filled along it's length with amazing eateries. Try Dosa Darlings, Spiced Roots, or Arbequina.
The House Bar - Stylish cocktails in a hidden bar near the High Street.
The Bear Inn - Pub that feels older than the colleges, often filled with graduating Oxfordians and Celebrities alike.
Top Tip
Visit the Bodleian Library and ask about their LGBTQ+ archive material - you might be surprised how many queer writers have passed through Oxford. The LGBTQ+ college tours also take you in the footsteps of famous queer Oxfordians including Oscar Wilde, T. E. Lawrence, and John Addington Symonds, proving that under the city's quiet grandeur lies a radical queer history.
How to get there
Begin your trip in Oxford - easy by Train from London Paddington or Marylebone, or straight off the M40 motorway which runs virtually between London Heathrow or Birmingham International Airports.
Stop 2: Blenheim Palace
Where is it? Just 25 minutes north of Oxford near the ancient market town of Woodstock, giving you your first taste of the pastoral market towns and villages of the Cotswolds.
Why is it worth visiting?
Blenheim Palace is a jaw-dropping UNESCO World Heritage Site and the birthplace of Winston Churchill, complete with grand interiors, huge parkland and lakeside walks, and gardens galore. This is where the Cotswolds and Hollywood period dramas collide in the most impressive way.
Things to see
Palace State Rooms - imagine the most dramatic ceilings you've ever seen, between rooms filled with priceless artworks, tapestries, and treasures.
The Great Park Walk - take the 5 mile circular through the gardens to enjoy ancient oak woodlands, quiet lakeside views, and different views of the huge palace.
The Formal Gardens - a shorter loop through the Capability Brown designed parkland, filled with cascades, fountains, rose gardens, and temples.
Where to eat and drink
The Orangery - for elegant lunches or an afternoon tea fit for a Duke.
Top Tip
Walk down to the Walled Garden for a wander around the herb beds and greenhouses.
How to get there
Drive from Oxford or take the S3 bus from Oxford's Gloucester Green to Woodstock.
Stop 3: Burford
Where is it?
30 minutes west of Blenheim nestled into a meander of the deep Windrush valley. This is the Cotswolds proper, where all you can see of the next village is the top of the church spire poking just over the top of the hills and trees.
Why is it worth visiting?
Often called the 'Gateway to the Cotswolds', Burford is a perfect slice of stone-build beauty, complete with a medieval bridge, towering gothic church, and a high street cascading down the hill.
Things to see
The High Street - Tree-lined High Street perfection, lined with antique and artisan shops.
St John the Baptist Church - with a history that can be seen all the way through the church, from it's millennia-old church tower, to it's more recent Civil War history.
Don't miss walking along the Windrush River towards the tiny picture-perfect villages of Swinbrook and Asthall. There's a reason everyone from Liz Hurley to Ellen DeGeneress have called this stretch of Cotswolds home.
What to eat and drink
Huffkins - for classic cream teas on the High Street
The Angel at Burford - for dinner with plates made from proudly local produce such as Cotswolds Lamb and Wiltshire Ham.
Burford Garden Company - Might seem random to head to a garden centre, but here you can shop luxury goods, clothes, and grab a fresh lunch too. A window into the English obsession into gardening.
LGBTQ+ trivia
Edward Lear (The Owl and the Pussycat Poet) had a long association with Burford and had a decades-long romantic friendship with his travel companion, Charles Cary, who he'd often bring here.
How to get there
Follow the A40 west from Woodstock, then the A361 north into town down the dramatic High Street hill. If you're a passenger, get your camera ready!
Stop 4: Stow-on-the-Wold
Where is it?
Just 20 minutes north of Burford, following a street that winds through tiny villages and across green hills. Stow (for short) is perched high on a hill and gives you stunning views across the Cotswold Hills.
Why is it worth visiting?
A market town that punches well above its weight with antique shops, galleries, and dramatic skies. It sits on a key cross roads on the ancient Fosse Way, with great access in each cardinal direction to other Cotswold big hitters like Daylesford, Broadway, and Snowshill.
Things to see
St Edwards Church - with its Tolkein Door framed by ancient yew trees. This is the closest the Cotswolds gets to middle-earth.
Market Square - lined with quirky local shops and bookshops to explore.
Where to eat and drink
The Old Butchers - a chic modern eatery with fab cocktails
Coach House Coffee - For a caffeine pick-me-up and breakfast treats
Top Tip
Stay overnight at The Porch House - possibly the oldest inn in England, with wood-beamed ceilings and modern comforts. While Stow doesn't have a big queer nightlife scene, it has a strong culture of inclusivity, and has become something of a countryside escape for LGBTQ+ couples from London.
How to get there
From Burford, follow the A424 into the heart of Stow.
Day 2: Stow to Cirencester via Bourton, The Slaughters & Bibury
Stop 5: Bourton-on-the-Water
Where is it?
Bourton is 10 minutes south of Stow along the Roman Fosse Way, straddling the Windrush River giving it its nickname 'The Venice of the Cotswolds'.
Why is it worth visiting?
The shallow river flows through its centre and is spanned by five arched stone bridges. It's impossibly quaint but fills up quickly with day-trippers so get here early to enjoy the Cotswolds peace and quiet before the coach trips arrive.
Things to see
The Model Village - for the most quaint, yet most meta, way of seeing Bourton. Try and see if you can see the tiny model village in the model village for a bit of mind bending detail.
Riverside cafes and tearooms along the stretch of the Windrush.
The Cotswolds Perfumery - your opportunity to create a bespoke scent using Cotswold made pure essences. A perfect gift or souvenir.
Where to eat and drink
Bakery on the Water - pastries and riverside tables.
Smiths - Burgers and buzzy vibes for lunch
The Dial House - for seasonal menus specialising in local ingredients and delicious specials.
Top tip
Go as early or on a weekday, the vibe changes dramatically on days where the day trips arrive. My favourite days have almost universally been when a light drizzle keeps the crowds away.
How to get there
A short 10-minute drive southwards from Stow-on-the-Wold along the A429.
Stop 6: The Slaughters
Where is it?
Just a mile north of Bourton-on-the-Water, following the quiet River Windrush through the valley.
Why is it worth visiting?
Don't let the name scare you; Upper and Lower Slaughter are twin villages with romantic vibes and storybook scenes. Think rows of golden stone cottages butting up against trickling streams and water mills like a scene from the Wind in the Willows. Things to See
The Old Mill in Lower Slaughter - a quintessential water mill turning slowly on the edge of this peaceful village
The River Eye tricking past 17th-century cottages and under clapper bridges.
A peaceful country path between the two villages - pack your walking boots.
Where to eat and drink
The Lords of the Manor in Upper Slaughter - think refined dining or a posh afternoon tea is a bona fide Manor House.
Top tip The walk between Lower and Upper Slaughter is flat, picturesque, and only takes 20 minutes - perfect for a slow Sunday vibe.
How to get there
It's a few minute drive from Bourton or a peaceful walk via the footpath.
Stop 7: Bibury
Where is it?
25 minutes south of Bourton and The Slaughters in another impossible to describe fairytale river valley, this time the babbling River Coln, get here early and the mist will still be cloaking the perfect little cottages of Bibury.
Why is it worth visiting?
Often dubber the prettiest village in England, Bibury is home to Arlington Row, a world famous row of ancient weavers cottages that look straight out of a fairytale book.
Things to see
Arlington Row - Formerly gracing the front page of every British passport, this row of cottages have inspired everyone from William Morris to Anne Robinson (yes, off of the Weakest Link; used to be a resident).
Coln River and Trout Farm - if you like your trout fresh, have a look around the manicured gardens and pools of the Bibury Trout Farm. Otherwise just enjoy the perfect riverside views.
Less than 10 minutes from Bibury is the equally famous Chedworth Roman Villa. Check out the sprawling 2-millennia-old villa complete with mosaics still intact and find out how the ancients lived.
Where to eat and drink
The Swan Hotel - perfect for lunch in a luxurious setting, consider booking in advance.
The Twig - for picture perfect coffees and light lunches.
Top Tip
Visit midweek or early if possible - there's nothing more magical that watching the mist still rising from the streams and cloaking the cottages. Especially if you're the only ones here!
How to get there
Head down the A429 to Fossebridge before turning and following the Coln River towards Bibury.
Stop 8: Cirencester
Where is it?
About 20 minutes from Bibury, emerging in Cirencester can feel like a shock to the system after all the quaint jewel-boxes you'll have visited, but head to the middle and you'll find it's just as charming.
Why is it worth visiting?
Known as the 'Capital of the Cotswolds', Cirencester is a charming market town with Roman roots and leafy Georgian parks and squares. It also has a growing food scene, and stays fiercely independent compared to many other similar sized towns who've let the larger chain shops in.
Things to see
Corinium Museum - Named after the Latin name for Cirencester and tracing back the town and surrounding area's Roman roots, from provincial capital to quaint market town, containing the UK's biggest collection of ancient mosaics.
Cirencester Park - vast parkland which is perfect for a forest stroll a slice of pastoral escapism right on the edge of town.
The Market Square - A rainbow coloured square towered over by a vast medieval church and filled with boutique shops and indie cafes.
Where to eat and drink
Sam & Jak - seasonal dining and upmarket wine bar right on the edge of the Market Place. Perfect for a date night dinner.
Rave Coffee - On the edge of town, between the town centre and the huge remains of the Roman Amphitheatre, awesome coffee in modern settings.
Top Tip
Check out The Hop Kettle for amazing locally brewed beers and good vibes, including an often huge range of Gluten Free beers. Cirencester is also home to a small but active queer community, with regular events and meet ups hosted by Pride in Gloucestershire. There's a visible push here for inclusion and community (part of the reason we have chosen to settle here).
How to get there
From Bibury, head southwest along the B4425 through the village of Barnsley, and past the front gate of the Pig in the Cotswolds which might be your best place to overnight for a decadent stay.
Day 3: Cirencester to Bath via Tetbury & Westonbirt
Stop 9: Tetbury
Where is it?
20 minutes south of Cirencester, just past the Source of the River Thames that rises near the roadside Thames Head Pub. Tetbury sits on top of a steep hill, giving true Cotswold hill town vibes.
Why is it worth visiting?
Royal connections and antique heaven - Tetbury is very well-heeled and is a favourite with the Windsor family with both King Charles and Princess Anne having private estates on the edge of town. It's as posh as it is picturesque.
Things to see
Highgrove Gardens - the perfectly manicured gardens of the Highgrove Estate, King Charles' countryside pad. Make sure you book tours in advance.
Tetbury's famous Market House and vast antique arcades. Tetbury is famous for the number of antiques shops here.
Where to eat and drink
The Close Hotel - for brunch or a celebratory glass of fizz.
Blue Zucchini - for ethical plates and huge slabs of cake as well as glorious cocktails.
Top Tip
For a slice of the aristocratic, Tetbury is perfectly placed for both Badminton and Gatcombe Park Horse Trials. Check out the timings of both for days of luxury and hobnobbing with nobility. Both Tetbury and Cirencester often host pop up drag brunches and queer supperclubs so keep your eyes peeled for these events. While they're both sleepy, it's further proof that rural need not mean conservative in these liberal towns.
How to get there Drive southwest from Cirencester via the A433. Bus 882 also leaves from the Cirencester Forum and travels to Tetbury via Kemble Train Station which has direct connections to London Paddington and Cheltenham for cross country connections.
Stop 10: Westonbirt Arboretum
Where is it?
Just south of Tetbury, you'll see the signs (and often the queue of cars) off of the A433.
Why is it worth visiting?
The National Arboretum is Britain's finest collection of native and exotic trees. It's criss-crossed by miles of paths and is perfect for a forest walk at any time of year; but it comes alive in the Autumn when the Acer collection turns vibrant colours.
Things to see
Treetop walk - walk at a birds eyeline through the canopy to get up close and personal with some of Westonbirt's oldest and most precious trees
Acer Glade - check out the firey vibrant colours of the acers in the autumn, in one of the UK's greatest autumn spectacles.
Where to eat and drink
The Smokehouse at Westonbirt - serving lunchtime delights in picture perfect settings.
Top tip
Check out dates for Forest Live. This series of day festivals runs throughout the summer, and attracts international musical talent. It can make experiencing the arboretum less peaceful, but worth checking who is playing.
How to get there
Follow the A433 south of Tetbury for 10 minutes, and follow the brown signs into the Westonbirt Car Park, run by the Forestry Commission.
Final Stop: Bath
Where is it?
Bath sits 30 minutes south of Westonbirt, nestled in a steep river valley overlooked by the southern-most Cotswold Hills. This is the much-celebrated location of the UK's only natural hot springs right on the edge of the River Avon.
Why is it worth visiting?
End your road trip in style with a city of Roman Baths, grand Georgian architecture, and relaxing in instagram-ready rooftop spas. Bath is one of the UK's most picture-perfect and historic cities; bringing together all of the Roman history, golden stone, and eye for luxury of the Cotswolds into one vibrant and totally unique city.
Things to see
The Roman Baths & Thermae Spa - Explore the amazingly well preserved historic Roman baths, still complete with the waters bubbling up from the hot spring, before taking to the waters yourself in a much more polished experience at Thermae.
The Royal Crescent & The Circus - two of Bath's most knockout Georgian confections; all huge columns, roman effigies and Bridgerton vibes.
Canal Walks - follow the canal from Sydney Gardens to the upmarket neighbourhood of Bathampton, before taking in the indie shops of Walcot Street.
Where to eat and drink
Beckford Canteen - for standout seasonal food with a focus on ethically sourced and veg-first plates.
The Hideout - For sultry whisky bar vibes near the Abbey, perfect to toast the end to an amazing trip.
Mandalyns - Small but welcoming gay bar near The Paragon in Bath. Look out for special events here especially at weekends.
LGBTQ+ Trivia
During the Georgian era, Bath was more than just a place for healing waters - it was a glittering social scene where aristocrats and creatives mingled, flirted, and indulged in scandal. Queer encounters were common beneath the surface, from coded rendezvous in Assembly Rooms to late-night escapades in bathhouses. While not always documented, letters and diaries hint at a vibrant queer undercurrent - one you can imagine while sipping wine in a Georgian townhouse.
How to get there
Bath is only 30 minutes south of Westonbirt along the A433 and A46. It's close to the M4 allowing for fast onward travel to London Heathrow or Bristol International Airport, and well connected along the Great Western Railway to London Paddington and Bristol Temple Meads.
LGBTQ+ Travel Tips
The Cotswolds may not have rainbow crosswalks or big city gay bars, but don’t let the thatched roofs fool you - this countryside escape is quietly welcoming and full of queer-friendly charm. Oxford and Bath offer rich LGBTQ+ history and inclusive venues, while villages along the way are known for their warm hospitality, especially at indie stays and artisan cafés. Want to connect locally? Look out for pop-up pride events, queer-owned boutiques, and LGBTQ+ supper clubs, especially in Cirencester and Bath.
The Cotswolds: Not just storybook villages
The Cotswolds may be old-world on the surface, but beneath the honeyed stones lie stories of queer artists, botanical rebels and independent thinkers. Whether you're walking through sheep-dotted hills or sipping rose in a sunlit courtyard, there's joy to be found here - and space to be yourself.
Save this for your next countryside getaway and send to your road-trip buddy who'd love a bit of queer Cotswolds magic. Follow us for more LGBTQ+ travel guides with heritage, humour, and a scenic cake stop or two.
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